Saturday, May 28, 2005

 

Brisbane--4--Tamborine

G’day
Since my last blog, Fiona has been back at work and we have had 6 nights away at a mountain retreat only an hour south of Brisbane--Mount Tamborine. Fiona kindly gave us the use of her Polo and after looking at 3 locations we drove up a twisty road to Mount Tamborine, looked at a Motel room there and instantly fell for the view from the balcony! To call the area a mountain is a bit of a misnomer as it is a forested plateau some 500 m high. There are 3 settlements some 5 km apart and all of them are spread out. There are quite a few art/craft shops so Pat enjoyed that side of it,
The area is surrounded by tropical rain forest and we managed to complete all the walks which are found on the steep slopes but are not much more than 3-4 km in length. Supposedly there are several waterfalls but in the drought conditions they’ve been experiencing there is barely a trickle of water going down the rock face! We really enjoyed having breakfast on the balcony, watching the sun rise over the Gold Coast. The sunsets there have been fabulous but occur at 4.30 pm--it is dark by 5.15!
Two of the days we motored for about an hour south to the Lamington National Park--about 1000m-- where there are 2 lodges and half day and day walks radiating from them. The first day’s walk was from O’Reilly’s Lodge and was a circuit of 11 km and entailed a crossing a creek three times--they have constructed no bridges. At the first crossing Pat went her length and got wet but quickly dried out--the other crossings were more simple! It was great walking in the tropical forest as it gave perfect shade from the sun. At the end of the walk we went on an aerial walkway and at one point you could climb up a ladder to an eyrie, 30 m off the ground ( I only went to stage 1 at 24 m!)
The next day we went to Binna Burra Lodge and managed to complete a circuit to Dave’s Creek and some extensions, resulting in an 18 km walk. Half way round Pat slipped on some wet laterite and came down heavily on the small of her back--it is still giving her bother. Unfortunately her trainers don’t give as good a grip on dicy terrain. The vegetation on this walk changed with the soil type and one section was much more open. The whole area is volcanic and there are huge lava flow cliffs with impressive waterfalls. We saw parrots, hawks and pademelons--minature ru’s and heard a lyre bird.
At the end of the walk we had a meal at the Lodge, eating out on a verandah admiring the sunset. As you can gather we are enjoying wall to wall sunshine!
What we have really enjoyed has been the peace and quiet--the days we did the longer trecks we hardly met a soul and you felt you were away from all trials and tribulations. All the walks are well graded and are a contrast to many UK ones which seem to go straight up a hill! Today we visited another National Park on the NSW border and landed at a tearoom which had just opened on a country road and produced a wonderful meal at a reasonable price.
It is hard to realise that we have less than a week left and this will definitely be my last blog before coming home! Thanks to all who have sent messages and apologies if I have not given due acknowledgement!
Pat & Tom

Saturday, May 21, 2005

 

Brisbane--3

The weather has been more normal this past week--sunny and warm--and has been very pleasant for walking around. It certainly seems to have been better than the UK weather from what Isabel was saying in her e-mail-thanks for all the news---glad to hear the cruise business is picking up--you’ll have to watch it doesn’t take over!!!!!!!
One trip we made this week was to Caloundra, a seaside resort on the Sunshine Coast, north of Brisbane. It is about an hour’s drive and has a series of beautiful beaches, one of which is called Moffat! For the first time we had a meal in the RSL Club--you sign in as a member. Half the area is given over to “pokies” ( one armed bandits). RSL stands for Retired Serviceman’s League and their clubs are well known for good food at reasonable prices ( Isabel’s friends told us about them 4 yrs ago). We had a walk along Moffat Beach watching the surfers on their boogie boards.
On our way home there were spectacular thunderclouds over Brisbane with lightening flashing through them but no thunder or rain. On the outskirts suddenly the car was being pummelled with hailstones the size of pandrops. It was so bad we came off the road and sheltered in the underground carpark of a store. Cars were pouring in to do the same thing. Very quickly the ground was white with hailstones and it caused chaos in the city with some areas losing power. It was a freak hailstorm and one of the worst of its kind to hit the city. An Antarctic pool of air (-23 C) was over a ground temp of 20 C and the large temp difference caused ice to form. Again it was very localised and only 2 suburbs were badly affected.
Earlier in the week we went by ferry to Moreton Island--an hour’s sail east of the city and spent the day there. It is a sand island and there are no tarmac roads, only a small resort with chalets, flats, cafes and water sports outlets. We had a 2 hour walk along the beach passing wrecks and birds but few people--it was very relaxing paddling in the water. On our way back the boat was full of SES ( volunteer Emergency workers) who had been combing the forested island for a Brazilian who had been missing for 9 days. He was found the next day safe but exhausted. Seemingly he had gone for a bush walk from the resort without food and water and become lost in the mountains of sand. He hadn’t had water for 5 days and was delirious.
Otherwise our holiday has been pretty mundane! Last Sunday we drove out to the Brisbane Forest Park which surrounds the city and is similar to the Blue Mountains. We took in a shaded ridge walk before having a meal at a hilltop inn--great food cooked on the premises. Yesterday we walked from Fiona’s along the river to almost the city centre--it was lovely and we saw a lizard out sunning himself on the rocks. Earlier in the week I hired a mountain bike for 4 hours and cycled along the river banks for as far as the cycle track went and returned on the other side crossing the river by 3 bridges en route. I didn’t cover a great distance but it was some much needed exercise! The cycle paths are well used by walkers, joggers and cyclists. They are developing them all the time.
Last night I took in my first AFL (Aussie Rules) match at the Brisbane Cricket Ground--the Gabba. It was a sell out and the opposition, the Melbourne Tigers ran out winners of an exciting match by 3 points. It was quite a spectacle--the pitch is huge and it is all action with few stoppages. Trainers can come on to the pitch at any time and give advice and at any kicks at goal, water carriers come on from all parts of the pitch. There are 5 officials--one referee and 4 assistants and the latter throw the ball in over their heads when it goes out of play! I enjoyed the experience very much.
We hope to go away for a few days next week. Trust you are all well Thanks for the e-mails Isabel, Winifred and Ken and the photos Joann ( hope you have a great time in Northern Ireland
Tom

Saturday, May 14, 2005

 

Brisbane--2

It hardly seems possible that that is week 1 in Brisbane over. The weather for most of the week has been very “British”--cloudy and overcast, mostly warm but one day quite cool. The last few days have been more normal with heat and sunshine, resulting in a spectacular thunderstorm and brillant rainbow. Fortunately we were in the Arts Centre on the South Bank so we could shelter and view the performance without getting wet. That evening we went to a play--Vincent--about Vincent Van Gogh’s brief stay in Brixton. It was quite slow but well acted.
As well as being close to bus and rail links, Fiona’s unit is an easy drive to a shopping mall which means she rarely has to go into town as most of the big stores--Myers--have branches there. They had Winter Sales on and we met a shop assistant from Glasgow! We have visited more galleries--the Powerhouse at New Farm which had in a past life been a power station. New Farm had been the penal colony and is now a park surrounded by upmarket housing. There is a great amount of building going on all over the city.
Yesterday we went to a Super 12 Rugby Union game--Queensland Reds v ACT Brumbies (Canberra). It was held in the Suncorp Stadium which is a compact ground--we had seats near the pitch with good views of the pitch--there are 2 large screens if you can’t see too well. Attendance is encouraged by giving free rail travel to the game, having a walkway from the nearest station and extra trains before and after the game. There were many families there and youngsters entertained the crowd with touch rugby at half time. Neither team is doing well this year but they put on a great display of fast, attacking rugby with plenty tries and no kicked penalties!
By and large traffic flows smoothly through the city and there is a designated lane for cars with 3 or more passengers. We hope to move outside the city in our travels next week. Glad Sam had a good visit from Great Aunts Betty & Isabel and we hope he enjoyed his weekend in Lochmaben
Trust you are all well

Sunday, May 08, 2005

 

Brisbane--1

G'day
Arrived safely in Brisbane on the 7 May to be met by Fiona and Rob who had just arrived because of heavy traffic in the city. Fiona looks really well and has lost weight and grown her hair longer. Rob is a very nice guy and is easy to get on with. The unit is very comfortable and has a familiar look about it--Ikea is not too far from here! She has furnished it well and the 2 floors she put down are warm looking and enhance the room. Her VW Polo is in excellent condition and is marroon. There is a surprising amount of garden which can be used for sociallising or the inevitable barbie--she still hasn't mastered the art of looking after grass--I've suggested astroturf!!!!!!
Yesterday we went out for breakfast--Pat and I had Tuscan porridge which was delicious--it tasted like rice pudding and had raisins and a crust of sugar on it, accompanied by a bowl of cream which had nuts mixed through it. To work this off we went for a walk at a viewpoint--Mt Coothat and the Botanic Gardens--it was very relaxing. The ladies couldn't finish their evening pasta so we came away with 2 doggie bags--a normal custom here--Rob won't have to make up a piece for work today! Our day finished with a film--Hitchhikers Guide to the Galaxy which was a bit of light relief with incredible graphics.
Our last few days in NZ were great. The last long drive--about 6 hours (they calculate distance in time cf km which is very helpful)--took us from Queenstown to Christchurch. We left in brilliant sunshine and after half an hour were in a temperature inversion mist which lasted for about an hour--we didn't see Cromwell!! En route to Omarara we encountered to herds of merino on the road which slowed our progress a little. At the coffee stop at Omarara I booked a Mt Cook flight and then had difficulty in getting into the car and it wouldn't start! The battery was flat as the lights had been on for the fog and I didn't realise I hadn't put them off. Fortunately there was a garage across the road and a helpful mechanic took over a battery and got me started!
We had a fast drive via Twizel to Lake Tepako where we boarded our Air Safari's flight to Mt Cook. As we were the only customers we were taken up by Fraser in a 4 seater Cessna! What a wonderful experience flying over the vast outwash plain of the Mackenzie High Country and then to circle Mts Cook and Tasman at 12,000 ft looking down on the myriad of glacial features--aretes, moraine, corries, corrie lochans, glaciers, crevasses, roche moutonne etc. We even looked down at sea plane which had landed on the glacier. At one point we saw the Tasman Sea and Lake Matheson as well as the hills outside Christchurch--the width of South Island.
At L Tepako there is a beautiful small church which appears on postcards because of its location and behind the alter is a wide window looking out over the lake to Mt Cook--stunning view. Nearby is a striking statue of a collie dog which had been a faithful companion to an early settler.
Our next coffee stop was at Fairlie where we discovered that the lady who served us came from Carrbridge, had married a Kiwi ski instructor in Aviemore and 3 years ago had come out to settle with her husband & 2 teenage boys. The guy who owned the tearoom was from Invergordon! The last hour of the drive was in darkness but we managed to find our digs without too much trouble.
Our Christchurch stay was most enjoyable and our hosts Anna and Robert made us feel very much at home. They have a lovely home in a secludeded cul-de-sac off a main road. The first day we had a 30 min walk in to the city via Hagley Park which contains pitches for rugby, croquet, tennis and bowling; Botanic Gardens and a marvellous museum. Most of the rest of the day was spent at an Arts Centre which housed numerous craft workers--Pat had a field day!
Later we visited the Art Gallery which is a modern whose façade reminds you of the Sage in Newcastle Upon Tyne. There were interesting modern exhibitions and Scottish artists, Henry Raeburn and Thos/James? Guthrie (born in Greenock, Isabel) were represented. In the evening we drove up a hill in the outskirts and got a great view of the city which spreads over a wide area and was built on a swamp. There is a pollution problem but they are not having much success in persuading people not to burn coal and wood.
The following day we spent in the nearby Banks Peninsula, named after the scientist who was on Cook’s first world voyage. It is yet another volcanic crater and there is a spectacular Summit Road along the ridge. We took a diversion to Chorlton and Okains Bay, part of the road being unsealed--it was beautiful and traffic again light. The main obstacle was a herd of Angus cross bred cattle which was being herded along the road--it took aged to get past them. The cattle here are definitely smaller. We had another pleasant walk through brush and woodland to the highest point on the ridge but this time the path was quite slippy. We ended up at the main settlement on the coast--Akaroa--originally a French settlement but little trace of that now except in the street names which are all “rues”. The area also had some superb craft shops--the standard here is very high.
Our Christchurch stay ended on Saturday and we are very grateful to our hosts, Robert and Anna for their wonderful hospitality.
Pat’s 65th birthday was special with a cuddle, card (pecten shell picked up while diving) and present from Fiona! We spent the day in the Queensland Art Gallery which had a superb exhibition by school pupils, Fiona Hall who makes wonderful creations using metal from coke cans eg shredding them and making nests and Robert Moew (Pregnant Woman). There was a video on how he created his work and it must have taken months. Raeburn and D Y Cameron were the Scots represented. In the evening Fiona who had stayed at home, produced a wonderful barbie---beef, chicken, salmon and veg, followed by an enormous pavlova. It was lovely sitting out the back with garden lighting, palm trees and possums popping along the fence from time to time! Rob and 2 of her nursing friends completed a very pleasant day.
Hope this has not been too garbled!
Tom

Tuesday, May 03, 2005

 

Queenstown

Kia Ora
This will be the last blog from NZ as I hope to do the next one at Fiona's. Thanks Sam for the e-mail---glad you had a good time in Cawdor. Can't reply personally as you sent an anon blog!!!!!!!!!! Much love from Gran & Grandpa Sorry Dad has had to go back to work.
We had another wonderful journey to Queenstown from Fox. Before we left the sun was shining and we did the Lake Matheson walk--no reflections but great view of Mts Tasman and Cook. The West Coast drive was great with an impressive view of where the Tasman Sea and Antarctic Ocean meet. From Haast we turned inland to follow the Haast R valley--another impressive steep sided forested valley with a broad braided river bed this time. Once over the pass we were in different country--grassland because of the rainshadow Brilliant sunshine as we followed Lakes Wanaka and Hawea to Wanaka where there is a Puzzle Store which sounded interesting. At our coffee stop we took in the Wanaka Festival of Colours (gala) and Pat enjoyed a display of dancing by teenagers. There is also one of the best skateboard parks I've seen made of concrete and sunk into the ground. We took a backroad to Arrowtown via Cardrona ( a ski not a golf resort!)--there were spectacular views to Arrowtown and Queenstown with para gliders taking off from the hillside.
Arrowtown was fully booked as its Festival was in full swing so we got fixed up in Queenstown. On Sunday we went out to Arrowtown and went to the open air service--held in brilliant sunshine. The music was provided by the Arrowtown Miners Band--a wonderful collection of local worthies who played on the back of an old lorry and at the same tempo for all tunes! "Roll out the Barrel" was one of their entroit pieces! Arrowtown is a very quaint former gold mining settlement which looks very New England with the deciduous trees changing colour. Chinese were brought over to mine the gold at the end of the 19th C and didn't get a very good deal--the Govt apologised in 2002. It was a very relaxing day.
On Monday we left Queenstown at 6.30 am and drove the first hour in the dark--our mission was to get to Manapouri and join a trip to Doubtful Sound. The 2 hour drive was completed in rain but it had stopped by the time we did the boat crossing of L Manapouri although it was dark and cloudy. After our visit to an HEP station--2 km drive underground-- the sun came out and the drive over the Wilmot Pass gave a wonderful first glimpse of the Sound--so called as Capt Cook doubted he could get in and out because of a series of little islands and rocks at the mouth. We had a 3 hour cruise up the Sound and nearly reached the mouth--it is 3 times the length of Milford. The weather was glorious and we spent the time on the deck at the front of the catamaran--there were only 14 in the company--the maximum allowed so we had individual treatment as there were 2 guides on board. As well as numerous waterfalls--only 4 are permanent in an area with 8 m of rain a year--we saw blue penguins, fur seals and hump backed dolphins. It was a magic day (another one!)
Today I did the mandatory Shotover Jet Boat trip--very exciting nearly crashing into the sides of the gorge and doing 360 turns at speed--how these guys never have an accident I don't know. The boats go up to 86 km per hr and can operate in 10 cms of water. It is very expensive and very commercial--I declined the photo package at 15 GDP In the afternoon we drove out to Glenorchy which is a magical spot at the end of L Wakatipu where Andrew Aitken, son of one of my school buddies has built a house--we saw it but Andrew wasn't in. This was another Lord of the Rings location. Before dark we had a great shoreline walk in Queenstown.
The weather has been unbelievable--sun again today and snow on the hills It looks as if it will continue. There were 2 tremors last night at 3 am! We head for Christchurch tomorrow and are staying with the brother of our Lochmaben hairdresser whom I taught! It is hard to believe we've been here nearly 3 weeks and hardly seen rain. It is cooler tonight but it is late autumn!
Hope the election goes well, Michael--will get the results no doubt here.
Best wishes
Tom

Friday, April 29, 2005

 

Fox Glacier

Kia Ora

Thanks to Fiona for newspaper articles re James Martin and to Isabel for up-to-date political comment! Silence from UK based family members--I presume you are receiving these blogs! Have a good weekend in Cawdor, Sam.
Have moved on from Nelson going via the Nelson Lakes NP--disappointing as it is supposed to be "little Switzerland" From there we followed the Buller River to its mouth at Westport. Beyond Murchison is the Buller Gorge with the longest swing bridge in NZ It became a problem when a party of Japanese wanted to take individual photos on the bridge when other folk were wanting across! Had a pleasant trail walk to falls where kayakers were successfully going down them. Visited Lyell which had been a gold mining town 1827-1900 and now is a grassy sward. Life must have been difficult then with poor communications--the river was an important one-- and not much else to do. It was a beautiful run through steep-sided forested hillsides.
Yesterday we came south down the West Coast to the Truman Track and the Pancake rocks. The latter were incredible--layered sandstone rocks which have been punctured by the sea and there were blowholes, sinks, arches etc I've never seen anything like it. We then stopped in Hokititi and Pat found a wonderful Craft shop! The woodwork and jewellry were superb. Then it was a hard drive to Fox Glacier for a 2 night stop.
Today I did a pre breakie walk round Lake Mathieson which usually has reflections of the Fox Glacier--too misty today. Then we walked up to a viewpoint--quite impressive. Next stop via a corkscrew road was to Franz Joseph Glacier--Fiona has scaled it in crampons. We were able to walk to the snout and admire the crevasses, seracs and moraine. It was groaning away! We saw one of the many groups who are guided across the glacier. For the first time it started to rain and we retreated to the cafes! Intend to go for Queenstown tomorrow for a 4 night stay
Hope you are all well
Tom

Tuesday, April 26, 2005

 

Nelson (cont)

Kia Ora

We heard this morning the very sad news of James Martin who lived 2 doors from us in Lochmaben for all his school life. He was a very fine young man who will be greatly missed. He had a great attitude to life and a great love for the outdoors and travel. Our thoughts and prayers go out to his family at this difficult time.
We haven't done much here but recover from the ferry journey which featured largely in the press. Yesterday was another lovely day and we motored to Abel Tasman National Park, about an hour's run. It is a 51 km coastal walk which takes 3-5 days. We walked about 2 hours up the track and back and thoroughly enjoyed it--a shaded walk and passing several secluded beaches. There were a surprising number of walkers of all ages out.
In the morning we walked into town--it was all closed down as it was Anzac Day. The shops open at 1 pm. We were interested to see Anzac supplements in the papers. There seems to have been some friction between Oz and NZ at what is happening at Gallipoli. Got some news of BBC plants in a Tory meeting--little else has been said re the election.
The countryside round here is heavily cultivated on the lower ground--vineyards and orchards of apples, oranges and pears. There is quite a lot of cattle and sheep but the high ground of which there is much is heavily forested.
You'll be glad it is a short blog tonight
Hope you are all well
Tom

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